Umu (Samoan Baked Feast – Home Version)
Experience the authentic flavors of Samoan island cooking with Umu, a traditional feast prepared over hot stones in an earth oven. This home-style version recreates the smoky, tender meat and creamy coconut vegetables using a regular oven, making it accessible while staying close to the original spirit of the dish.
Ingredients
For the meat and vegetables
- 800 g–1 kg chicken pieces (thighs or drumsticks)
- 500–700 g pork belly or fatty pork chunks (optional but traditional)
- 500 g taro, sweet potatoes, or regular potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
- 2–3 green bananas or plantains, peeled
- Salt, to taste
- Black pepper, to taste
For the coconut mixture (sauce & palusami-style packets)
- 400 ml coconut milk
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 1–2 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
- A pinch of salt
- A squeeze of lemon or lime juice (optional)
- A handful of spinach or other soft greens (to mimic taro leaves for palusami)
For wrapping & baking
- Banana leaves (if available) or baking parchment
- Aluminum foil
Instructions
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Prepare the Meat and Vegetables
Season the chicken and pork generously with salt and black pepper. Arrange the taro/sweet potato chunks and green bananas on a tray, lightly salt them as well.
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Make the Coconut Mixture
In a bowl, combine coconut milk, chopped onion, garlic, a pinch of salt and a little lemon/lime juice if using. Taste and adjust the salt; it should be pleasantly savory, as it will flavor the vegetables and greens.
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Make Palusami-Style Packets
Place a small handful of spinach (or other soft greens) in the center of a piece of banana leaf or baking parchment. Spoon 2–3 tablespoons of the coconut mixture over the greens. Fold into a tight packet and then wrap each packet in foil to seal in the coconut sauce.
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Assemble the “Umu” in the Oven
Preheat the oven to 180–190°C. In a large roasting pan, place the meat (chicken and pork), taro/sweet potatoes, and green bananas. Pour some of the remaining coconut mixture lightly over the taro/sweet potatoes. Add the wrapped palusami-style packets on top or alongside everything else in the pan. Cover the entire pan tightly with foil to trap the heat and steam.
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Bake
Bake for about 2–2.5 hours, or until the meat is very tender and the taro/sweet potatoes are soft and creamy inside. For a bit of browning, you can remove the foil for the last 15–20 minutes.
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Serve
Carefully open the foil packets: the greens should be soft and bathed in rich coconut cream. Serve the meat, root vegetables, and green bananas together on a large platter, with the coconut greens (palusami-style) on the side or on top.
Serving
Serve Umu hot as a shared family meal. You can enjoy it with:
- Extra coconut milk or coconut cream drizzled on top
- Fresh tomato and onion salad
- Rice or flatbread
The combination of tender meat, creamy coconut vegetables, and soft greens is what makes Samoan Umu a true feast.
